Stocks Vs Stocks

I have only done seedling grafting with Hylocereus,myrtillocactus and harrisia my success rates are ok but could be better. With every failure i feel like you learn something. Never tried grafting onto peri but thinking of giving it a go when i get some. I have heat mats and can set up a small artificial environment is it possible under fluros in side my house through winter. Anyway i feel inspired at the moment so i will try this soon and take some pics to show progress. Just a thought about peri steroid look could you grow the stock hard with little water and a sandy mix would it change anything now i have never grown peri so dont know requirements but i love to expirement and maybe once graft has taken you can treat it mean. Be interesting to hear everyones thoughts.

Harrisia in flower.

i have had my pere stocks soaking in water dosed with nitrosol in the laundry. my grafts have been pumping and pupping like crazy. the only down fall is i have to trim my grafting stocks regularly as it can get a little out of hand and take over. i originally used my home brew heating pad for heat but i managed to get enough heat out of the fluro's alone and having no problems at all even germinating seed has been no problem.

regards
Darren

Cool ill be setting up a little experiment now dont know how the wife will take to having it inside the house but ill work on that. Will probably set it up over the weekend an then post some pics next week. Got lots of nice seedlings but no peri ill work on that too if not got lots of other grafting stock. Will also next spring to a proper experiment using 5 different grafting stocks all the same size with all the same scions.

Perry is perhaps the easiest cactus to grow. Despite my best efforts... it's pretty much indestructable.

Quick question about Pereskiopsis... how cold tolerant is it? I was steering away from Hylocereus as I've read it is not very cold hardy.

I've grown it outside in Melbourne winters, fully exposed to the elements, with no ill effects aside from wind damage. It seems to be highly resistant to rotting, and generally survives pretty much anything you care to throw at it.

I think you need to keep the water up to it in winter more than normal Cacti otherwise it'll drop its' leaves...
Haven't tried it outside myself, but I agree with Lachy, it seems to be pretty forgiving and a single plant can be turned into a farm pretty quickly....

It was 2 degrees outside this morning at 8am (one degree in the car ) and there was ice on my windscreen. I think once winter sets in it's going to be bloody freezing this year down here. I don't have any plans to grow it outdoors but there is a chance it could still freeze down to -4, -5. It will be in a small greenhouse. Maybe I should just bring all my cactus inside over winter and not worry about it.

I would think that as long as it doesn't suffer a frost directly, perry *should* be okay. I suspect it would lose its leaves if subjected to near-freezing temperatures, but I would be surprised if it resulted in the loss of the plant. A greenhouse is probably a good idea.

Well it took me a while to get around it but here's my Jaba the agavoides or Jabavoides for short. Shows what perry can do.

Wow many growing points lots of flowers would be nice when flowering it is very interesting how different stocks effect scions differently. Does this stock help produce lots of flowers.

WOW!!!!





astro & gymno on selinicereus



lopho on perry

hello I am new here. I was just wondering what size does a selinicereus
or opuntia cutting have to be to use as grafting stock?

Just wanted to reply to cactuscook's post above. The Jabbavoides produced almost no flowers this season past, maybe cause the stock is getting tired as the years before flowering was good.

say hello to Jabbavoides cousin Jabbatusus, Jr. he has a long way to come

oh and his twin sisters Jabbatwo-sis

I did a post a while back that tried to explain what I think is going on here. Having done a bit of plant biology for Uni this year I now have a new theory. I am writing a blog post about it as part of my assessment. I will cut and paste it to here when I am done if that's o.k.
In the meantime, it doesn't sound great but here's my Jabba-anus

And these two pics show the shoot proliferation areas beginning to occur around the base of the first tubercles and on the callus surface that was where the seedling was cut for grafting.

jabba-anus lol...what sort of camera do you have? the pics are so close they look giant!

I just use a Nikon coolpix on macro. It is point and click. It does distort pics a bit but it is fairly sharp. To give an idea the plant in top pic is about 13cm and the smaller ones 3-4cm.

gnostic wrote:

hello I am new here. I was just wondering what size does a selinicereus
or opuntia cutting have to be to use as grafting stock?

I don't know if there's a particular size "limit", so to speak. I've seen scions grafted onto stocks that barely peeped above soil level, and I've seen grafts performed on three-foot tall trichs. That said, most grafts of small plants seem to be done onto stocks around 4-8 inches tall.

Quote :

hello I am new here. I was just wondering what size does a selinicereus
or opuntia cutting have to be to use as grafting stock?

haven't had much success with some opuntia I experiemented, but selinicereus seems to be ok even when very short like 3-4 cm above ground

I think a grafted scion grows faster generally when it was grafted on a large (tall) stock.
I use 20~30 cm tall stock normally but taller stocks are used for special scions.
Taller ones are 7~8 cm diameter and around 60 cm tall.
Hanazono

Quote :

I think a grafted scion grows faster generally when it was grafted on a
large (tall) stock.
I use 20~30 cm tall stock normally but taller
stocks are used for special scions.
Taller ones are 7~8 cm diameter
and around 60 cm tall.
Hanazono

Interesting... do you see lots of difference?

Wouldn't the pupping be more intense like that thus interrupting growth more times [longer stock = more pupping ??? perhaps]? Of course this might be the best way to make a cactus graft- tree

[for pereskiopsis pupping doesn't seem to be a big problem as it pups in waves and after a while it doesn't pup at all]

I suppose I got a whole life of experimentation to find out doing longer stocks myself too...

7~8 cm diameter
and around 60 cm tall.>>>> this is about some trichocereus, myrtillocactus etc as stock or what?

Got any pictures to share of older such tall grafts?

I guess my only minus for such grafts are looks - but I suppose it would make the best mother-plant.

I am not a purist, but I think slow growers and sphericals look best on short stock

Always good to listen to various opinions and thought about stocks.

I am beginer my self but I took graftin passionately from early on. I have grafted on pereskiopsis, trichocereus, cereus, opuntia, myrtillocactus, selicereus [two species], some little spherical echinopsis. Done seedlings on both pere and selinicereus.

for not-so-permanent-graft I am begining to lean on selinicereus, the one type.
reasons?
*It roots quickly
*it has virtually no spines as opposed f.e. to pereskiopsis
*speed of growth is good
*you can propagate fast for stock
* it has more surface to graft on, unlike pereskiopsis, which allows bigger scion to be grafted too along with seedlings
*goes well with certain astrophytums

keep it coming

mutant
The attached photo is one of grafted asterias on a tall stock.
The stock is a hybrid.
A grafting stock becomes weak when it was older even if it was a parmanet stock, and the scion stops growing.
When you use a large (tall) stock, the scion will grow continuously because the stock can maitain a good condition
long time.
You can see a large super kabuto in front. Super kabuto is a small type of asterias and grown by 10 cm diameter if it was own-root. The superkabuto in the photo is 18 cm diameter because grafted on a large stock.
Hanazono