Degrafting cacti

G'day guys,

Here's another topic for you to chew on. Degrafting... how do we all do it? From removing to successfully rooting the scion, and even re-grafting to a new stock. I've read Teonanacatl's excellent little book on grafting, however this is a section I'm particularly interested in. I prefer the look of plants grown on their own roots as opposed to those grown on a more hardy stock. However, I'm not so keen on the waiting times between sowing seed to getting a flowering plant - particularly for slooooow growers like Aztekium, Lophophora and Ariocarpus. Therefore, I'd like to try seedling grafts to Pereskiopsis to jumpstart early vegetative growth, and after a year or so, degraft the scion and root it for a more natural appearance. Any tips, teks or tricks to get this process working?

Thanks!

Hey Lachy.

Sounds good in theory but the problem with pereskiopsis is, as you said, it tends to morph and distort the scion away from its original form and when you degraft the cacti it will still grow and retain this distorted form/shape. Now not all scions grafted to pereskiopsis will distort but most do. I guess it all depends on how particular your are about shape/form. Personally I think form is everything.

As for degrafting and rooting I have not had much sucess with this. Only tried it with a few lophos and 2 are now deceased hehe. I have head aztekium is next to impossible to de-graft and root but I think I will have a go anyway, you never know till you try.

Degrafting and re-grafting I have had more sucess with. Grafting larger scions is easier in my opinion and provides a higher sucess rate. I usually cut the scion with enough left on the stock to re-shoot, I wait for it to pup and then cut them off and graft them also. I have completed this cycle a few times before the plant stops growing completely.

Good luck and happy grafting.

Ya good luck with aztekium!!!!!!!

lophs and astros are fairly straight forward. it is best to not cut them in half but cut at the join...less cut surface area the better. us ea rooting powder adn place out of soil in a shaded area (still well lit) and warm. i keep my cuts in the same place as my growing cacti, the recieve all the same conditions except you cannot water them...at ALL...until they have decent roots.

when i was in Canada and tried cutting them and leavign them indoors and stuff...bad stuff...keep them well lit (but not direct) and warm and not buried.....or placed on top of sand. astros take me 2-5 months, lophs take me 2 weeks to 9 months.

Hmm... sounds like I may have to re-think things slightly. Would a seedling graft to Pereskiopsis, then regraft to Myrtillocactus or Trichocereus allow for fast growth whilst minimising the distortion caused by long-term growth on the Pereskiopsis?

I suppose in practise what I'm after is trying to cheat nature... I want big lophs in a short time, but without the "pumping up" you get from Pereskiopsis.

i have had cacti on pereskiopsis that started sending roots out from the top part cause the pereskiopsis was rotting and not sending up anything anymore.

in regards to rooting aztekium would it be possible to limit how much water is coming through the stock but expose it to the aztekium to induce some rooting while its still getting some supplies from the stock?

just an idea, gonna be a long time before im gonna try degrafting aztekium thats for sure.

in my opinion....mind you this is not tested by myself.....the only chance of degrafting an aztekium would be to cut the root stock very short, but keep some of it there. let teh root stock root againa nd plant it (use a dry loving rootstock...or one that does not need to be moist (ie dont use hylocereus/pereskiopsis). over time the aztekium *MIGHT*, i emphasize MIGHT*****, send out some of its on roots because it is in the earth....mind you this will take years, if it works at all! i really dont knwo about aztekium....its hard to cheat the game when we dont know all the rules!

Good thinking kada. I wonder if that would work.

A question - once the scion has been degrafted from the stock, could the stock be regrafted immediately, as it is (to all intents and purposes) 'actively growing' - or would you need to let heal, throw out pups and go again from there?

it really depends on the xylem....old stocks CAN work well, new growth can be piss....

the general rule about new growth is because the xylem is new and easily healed and flexible....old plants the xylem is woody, and often has a lot of dead tissue....which will not do much for your scion.

if i am in a pinch, i degraft and regraft and it works ok, but it really varies....also stock specie will vary a lto as well.

Cheers, ears...

might have to give it a go and see what it happens... Never never know if you never never go

the worst that can happen is it fails and you learned what not to do.