questions about grafting to pereskiopsis.

grrrr i just wrote out a long post, posted it and then my connection cut out and i lost it.

anyway... i tried to do a graft the other night, not really caring too much if it worked or not. sorta just more for fun.

so when i do the graft, it seems like it is sitting on nicely, and it will work. however, after having a look in the morning, it seems there is a gap between the peres and the seedling. it's actually really starting to annoy me, as i re-tried it again last night, and still the same thing. i just don't know what i'm doing wrong, i followed the thread that is stickied, there seemed to be no air bubbles, and i pushed it down quite firmly.



i hope someone can help me.

oh and another question, why is it that you have to offset the vascular rings rather than line them up perfectly?

Hey Intense_cutn,

How old are those seedlings ? I think seedlings les than 30days are easier to graft to pere due to the skin being softer.

There are a few ways to help the scion stick:

Make sure the humudity is high enough so the stock does not shrink due to water loss.

Take a pereskiopsis leaf and cut it in half, now use the juice/sap from this and put a small drop on the top of the stock before attaching the scion. This acts like glue and will help it stick.

Water the stock a day or two before grafting. This inceases sap and helps the union.

If the seedlings are a bit older, then you may need to use a little pressue to help the union.

Superglue?

They graft adeniums with super glue. It is good when you have very small scions and small stock. You join the two together and run super glue around the outside of the join.

yeah the grafts are about 4-5 months old.

the peres were very juicy when cut, so i don't think there were any problems there.

super glue? what just regular old super glue?

Yep regular ol' super glue

Here's how they do it with adeniums Grafting with Super Glue

Its in French but here's what was said about it "Never put any glue on the flat cuts,it's the wrong way;you have to cut the two parts,then you press firmly the scion on the rootstock and you put glue all around the jonction.to have a fast dry you may blow with your mouth.if you use a very fast cyanoacrylate glue,in 1 minute all is did.
the best way is when the two diameters are same scion and rootstock."

and what about the vascular rings, why do they have to be offset?

intense_cutn wrote:

and what about the vascular rings, why do they have to be offset?

the offsetting of the vascular rings is just to ensure the rings cross over and can exchange goodies up and down the stock and scion. if your vascular rings are slightly different sizes (which is most likely) and you place the scion centred on the stock there is a good chance the rings won't touch, knit together and the scion won't be able to take up water and food - if it was possible to match them perfectly this would probably be ideal.

Quote :

Water the stock a day or two before grafting. This inceases sap and helps the union.

Thats one school of thought, the other says to withhold water for a period because the excess sap actually pushes the scion off the stock. I cant say either way as i have little experience with peres grafting. Where the hell is teo when ya need him?

this is the ring that you need to OVERLAP. the XILEMA


then clean the knife with alcohol. clean the excess of alcohol (I use a flame of a candle and it
help to evaporate the excess of alcohol)

make a clean cut to both plants and always clean the knife


JA50 Eriosyce napina ssp. tenebrica (Thelocephala)



place the plant NOT in the center of the perek. Put it towards a little to the an extreme.



very carefully I put this "alusa-plast" to help to join the grafting


and then DO NOT:
place them in direct sun light
move them or touch them

and then JUST WAIT!!

if you have lucky...







soon I will put more photos because this plant now is developing buds...


greetings from Chile

Juan Acosta
spiniflores

Fantastic photos Juan and a great example.

I would also add that my experience is that if you WITHHOLD watering the peres for about 2 days before and don't water it immediately after grafting it gives more chance for the graft to stick and not get forced off the peres. Leave it overnight in diffused / filtered light and then water it. I've had more success this way and little from a well watered peres.

Hi Juan, great Peres graft pics. How old would you say that seedling that you have grafted to the Pereskiopsis would be? Alot of people in Australia suggest that grafting seedlings to Peres should be done very early on in the seedlings life.

I have always wondered if grafting older seedlings to Peres would work, I can see from your pics that apparently it does work.

I have had many failures with Peres gafting (no sucess @ all), I always put it down to using seedlings that were not very young, as I mentioned that very young seedlings are usually used here in Aus.

I guess my technique is all wrong?

Not sure what this "alusa-plast" is? Looks like what we call "cling wrap" and the Americans call "Sarin" wrap. Sounds like it might have Aluminium in it though?

Cheers.

yeah that loooks like cling wrap to me, it's a good idea too, i might just have to try that with my next graft.

on another note, i grafted a week old loph seedling the other day, and it has seemed to take a lot better than the older seedling i did the other week. now it's just wait and see i guess.

how long does it normally take to notice accellerated growth?

grafting q - esp with ario seedlings...

Each and every graft attempted with these so far have ended with the scion wilted, even though it seems attached, and then it wries up and dies. The plants are kept in a humidity chanber, stocks not watered too much, and not in direct sunlight or high heat.

Lophs are fine in the same conditions...

I don't want to lose any more ario seedlings as yet, need to get this sorted first. or get more seeds! :S

trigonus wrote:

Hi Juan, great Peres graft pics. How old would you say that seedling that you have grafted to the Pereskiopsis would be? Alot of people in Australia suggest that grafting seedlings to Peres should be done very early on in the seedlings life.

I have always wondered if grafting older seedlings to Peres would work, I can see from your pics that apparently it does work.

I have had many failures with Peres gafting (no sucess @ all), I always put it down to using seedlings that were not very young, as I mentioned that very young seedlings are usually used here in Aus.

I guess my technique is all wrong?

Not sure what this "alusa-plast" is? Looks like what we call "cling wrap" and the Americans call "Sarin" wrap. Sounds like it might have Aluminium in it though?

Cheers.

hello
now I think that I have more experience with the pereskiopsis, I'm grafting almost everyday, this is adictive, jhajjajaj

You must use younger branches/clones. they will have softer vascular system If you have older clones, the "tubes" will be "hard" and that does not help to stock.

to the right the perfect clon (for me), to the left an older clon that sometimes works for bigger seedlings or little head cutted from other plants (i will show you that latter), but now, a perfect clon for graft a seedling is a 15 cm clon, you cut at 10 cm, a clean cut, without feel that you are cutting some "hard" branch, it must be a soft and clean cut.


this is not a perfect cut, because its over the areole and it is better to do it few mm away (so you avoid fungus in the wool and the problem with the next branches that will grow from that areole).
But the photo is usefull to show you the vascular system (xilema and floema in spanish)


step by step






and now... JA55 Eriosyce aspillagae (NOT from Tanume )


Another example:
JA50 Eriosyce (Thelocephala) napina ssp. tenebrica


REMEMBER TO "TRASLAPAR" (CROSS) THE INTERNAL RINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


and now...



It does not matter the size of the seedling
but when they are very small they dont have a ring, they just have a "point", so you must fit that point into
the ring of pereskiopsis... its just matter of practice and focus on the rings, with good glasses! jaja

JA175 Copiapoa rupestris, from Quebrada San Ramon


and nOw



greetings from CHILE!!

Juan Acosta

That's an awesome post Juan.
I find this very useful.
Thanks for sharing you skills and knowledge.

I find I have great success grafting larger/older seedlings (about 6 months old) to peres.

I also harden them off slightly before grafting, which seems to reduce the need for a high humidity environment while healing.

Nice pics.

hello friends
I-m visiting again this post. I will post pic of the plastic band that I keep using to push and fit the little plant on the peresk.

Ariocarpus


later


and look, in this link there are photos of another technique for bigger plants, not only for seedlings.

http://eriosyce.mforos.com/1114703/8961294-injerto-en-pereskiopsis-nueva-tecnica-usada-por-alex-py/

Alexander Arzberger´s pics

Wow that last technique is so cool. I just havta try that one.
I'm off to put in a heap of pereskiopsis cuttings

yep im with you... i have gotta give this one a go!!!

Spiniflores, really nice and helpful of you.

I didn't know pere's were rumored to work better with newborn seedlings....

I have never done a graft with such small seelings except recently